Ribera del Duero 2016

 Given that Spain is right up there in wine production with Italy and France, one would expect it to have a much greater presence in Australia. Yet Spanish wines are relatively unknown here. Tempranillos from Rioja are the main representatives. Rioja’s production is over 45 million litres. Despite Ribera del Duero’s production being only a fraction of this, the reputation of its wines has improved markedly over recent years.

To learn more about it, I decided to tour this relatively unknown region. Ribera del Duero is easy to reach by car or train, located just 130km north of Madrid. The vineyards adjoin the Duero River, which flows east to west through Portugal (where it is called the Duoro river) and into the Atlantic Ocean. The river is small in this part of Spain, yet it has carved a 2km wide valley into the highlands.

 This warm and arid region starts east of Valladolid and stretches 100km further east, past Aranda de Duero. Peñafiel is regarded as the centre, with historic Pesquera de Duero just off to the west. The region is easy to travel, as most wineries are only a few kilometres off the N-122 trunk route, which crosses the region. 

For a long time, Ribera del Duero produced wine only for local consumption, in particular rosé. The focus on powerful reds only started in the 1980s, as it did in Australia, - the region was given its Denominación de Origen in 1982. There is an exception, of course, and this is Spain’s legendary winery, Vega Sicilia. The first winery on this estate was built in 1864, and the rural land was ploughed to grow vines, based on 18,000 cuttings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Malbec, Merlot and Pinot Noir bought in Bordeaux. The famous winemaker Txomin Garramiola started to make table wine here in 1915. He introduced long ageing (7 years, based on Jerez principles), and gave the wines oxidative traits. The legendary status of the Unico wine was established during this period. His methods of wine making were used until World War II, and the same ageing process is still used today.

After the war, the winery suffered many quality issues and underwent a number of ownership changes. Quality improved dramatically after the Alvarez family purchased the estate. They made many changes and brought the winery into the modern era; this was occurring all over the world in similar ways. The influence of Vega Sicilia on Ribera del Duero cannot be overestimated. It is analogous in its significance to Max Schubert’s Penfolds for Australian red table wine.

Many aspects of today’s winemaking in Ribera del Duero are different now, however. The region is situated at an elevation of up to 1000m on the inland plateau of Spain. The climate is extreme. It is very hot during summer, with cool nights. Frost periods occur until April, and can start again at the end of September. This generally does not leave enough time for the ripening of the initially favoured Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot grapes. As it turns out, Tempranillo - tinto fino, as it is called here - is perfect for the short ripening cycle of the Ribera del Duero (temprano means early in Spanish). As a result, plantings are almost 100% Tempranillo today.

Nevertheless, there is plenty of diversity in the wines. In the vineyards, three major growing systems are employed: bush vines, the Guyot system and vertical shoot positioning. Planting density is low, as the rainfall is typically only 400 - 500mm per year. Some vineyards are planted near the river, others on higher altitudes on top of the ridges. The soil is varied. Sand, clay and limestone are common. In the winery, typical choices include the fashioning of single-vineyard wines or blends. Some wines are matured in French oak, some in American. The traditional wines show a strong oak influence, whereas modern wines are more fruit driven.

What struck me, was the overall quality of the wines. I was a bit of a Tempranillo sceptic. Many Rioja wines can be thin, and in Australia, Tempranillo wines can be one-dimensional and boring. On the first day of my visit, I tasted 14 wines, and was not disappointed in one. This has rarely happened. The wines are generally powerful, yet elegant and sophisticated. In this way, they represent a happy medium between the Rioja wines in the north-east, and the tannic Toro wines further west.

On my visit, I had three world class experiences. The first was a tour of Vega Sicilia, the second the winery and hotel complex of Abadía Retuerta, and the third the Atauta valley.

Entering the Vega Sicilia compound is a bit like entering a first-growth chateau in Bordeaux. There is an aura of long-term achievement; everything is in its place, and there is no rush. Yet many of the buildings and their interiors have been changed considerably over the last 40 years. Today, Vega Sicilia produces 300,000 bottles annually. In a good year, up to 100,000 can be Unico, its flagship wine. It is interesting that while historically Vega Sicilia has been a trailblazer, it is now in catch-up mode. As an example, it took time to convert to Tempranillo (now 80% of the plantings) from the French varieties originally planted.

Vega Sicilia took some time to analyse its 180ha of vineyards, identify the 19 soils and describe the 55 plots. There are essentially two major areas. The vineyards north of the highway leading to the river are flat, and consist of alluvial soils - clays, loam and sand. The vineyards south of the highway rise in elevation and have limestone soils. These are thought to produce the highest quality grapes, characterized by deep colour, firm tannins and high acids. Grapes from the different vineyards have been vinified separately only since 2010. The average age of the vines is 38 to 40 years, but it is higher for the flagship Unico wine. The yield is 3.5-4t/ha.

The unique aspect of Unico is the aging process: 10 years, and more contact with oak than any other red wine in the world. Fermentation takes place in oak. The wine is then transferred to large wooden vats, where it stays for 10 months. Then the wine moves to 225-l barrels, French and American, old and new, for one to two years, before being moved to large vessels for another four years. The percentage of new oak has been increased, to give the wine a more ‘modern’ note. Vega Sicilia, the ‘temple of wood’, has its own cooperage which produces about 20% of the barriques required. Following the maturation in oak, the wine stays in bottle for at least four years before release. The idea is that the wine should not be released until it is ready to drink. As an extreme, the Unico from the excellent 1970 vintage was released for the first time in 1995. The second wine, the Valbuena 5^°, undergoes a similar process, but for only half the time of the Unico. This would still qualify the wine as a Gran Reserva in the Spanish system.

After seeing and learning about the wines’ ageing process, we taste in the elegant tasting room. Apart from the two leading wines, there are three wines from the other investments of the company: a dry Tokaji from Hungary, which is quite attractive in its complex flavours of white flower and hazelnut, the Pintia from Toro, a high-alcohol, inky and oaky Tempranillo, and the Alion from the second winery in Ribera del Duero. The grapes used in this wine are relatively young and bought from many places. The wine is fresh, with a nice balance and good length.

The next wine to taste is the  Valbuena 5°, from 2011, an excellent vintage. The colour is a bright cherry red. On the palate, the cherry flavours show excellent depth in an elegant package.

The star, however, is the 2005 Unico. I am amongst the first (!) to taste it. This is a brooding wine, big and gutsy, with an excellent integration of fruit, oak and firm tannins. There are none of the oxidizing characteristics present in some other long-aged Spanish wines. This is a special world-class wine, made from grapes which can handle a long maturation process and still be lively and intense. This wine is individual, makes a statement and has impact. It deserves its status as an iconic wine.

Abadía Retuerta is an entirely different experience. Only a few minutes from Vega Sicilia, on the ‘golden mile’ between Valladolid and Pesquera, this enclave offers world-class accommodation, food and wine. The owner is the global pharma company Novartis. No funds have been spared in establishing this show piece. The 12^th century monastery has been converted to a hotel, and is surrounded by vineyards. It opened in 2012. L’Domaine, often named as the best hotel in Spain, has two excellent restaurants, and a beautiful spa. 

The estate covers 700ha. Only the best 185ha have had vineyards planted. The amount of restoration is best appreciated on a 4x4 tour. A lot of work has been done to create a healthy, natural environment that nurtures indigenous plants, including old vines. But sometimes limitless money can be too much of a good thing. As the vineyards are located outside the Ribera del Duero boundaries, Novartis was able to install an extensive drip irrigation system, only to find that the higher yields reduced the quality of the grapes. It is now turned off. The winery is spotless and sparkling, with the most modern equipment, and a very expensive racking system. 

The winery produces 600,000 bottles, 90% of which are the Selección Especial. This is a Tempranillo-based wine, with small percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The wine is attractively priced. It shot to fame when the 2001 vintage was awarded the world’s best red wine at the International Wine Challenge. In my tasting, I found the single varietal bottlings of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah more interesting. These wines are aged for 18 months in new French oak. They show good varietal character, with the Tempranillo being the best. It is the intention of Abadía Retuerta to increase the production of these higher priced wines.

The third outstanding experience is the Atauta valley. I was at first reluctant to travel there, as it is tucked away about 100km east of the ‘golden mile’. The Dominio de Atauta winery is situated in an isolated area, but the visit turned out to be a totally unique experience. I arrived at 4.30pm and the winery seemed closed. I was relieved when winemaker Jaime Suárez opened the door and lead me straight to the balcony overlooking the Atauta valley.  What I saw is incredible: a few deserted stone houses, fallen into disrepair, and tens, if not hundreds of family cellars, some as much as 500 years old. Here, simple presses were used, then the wine was stored in the underground cask cellar. That tradition has disappeared now.

But in 2000, Dominio de Atauta began, and now almost all grapes from the valley end up here. According to Jaime, four factors distinguish wines from this area. First, the climate is continental. At an elevation of 900-1000m, the day/night temperature difference is significant, leading to wines with higher acidity.

Second, the soil is very poor. The valley is 4km long and 1km wide, with many different soils. Sandy soils and calcareous rock dominate. On the valley floor, the top level can be 2m thick, but on the slopes it may be only 60cm to 1m thick. These differences allow single-vineyard wines that have quite different flavour profiles.

Third, because of its isolation and dryness, the valley escaped phylloxera. The Tempranillo vines are original bush vines, mostly 100-150 years old. The winery owns 17ha in 150 plots and in total sources 40ha of grapes from 600 plots. This is another peculiarity. Over hundreds of years, vineyards have been divided more and more among siblings, and many are now less than 1 acre in size. We drove around some of these plots, and they reminded me of old Grenache vineyards in McLaren Vale or the Barossa Valley.

Finally, vineyard management is organic and yields are low: 2t/ha.

Today, the winery produces five wines, with a total production of 100,000 bottles. The Parada de Atauta comes from many vineyards around the valley. It displays fresh and elegant cherry notes. It is made for early drinking. The Dominio de Atauta is the flagship wine. It comes from the valley floor. The fruit is more intense. The wine has a chalky, mineral character and a long, elegant finish.

I tasted two of the three single-vineyard wines. They demonstrate the different soil influences very well. The Valdegratilis comes from a plot with 2m deep rich clay soils. This wine is very dark in colour. It is a big, masculine wine with firm tannins. In contrast, the Llanos grapes grow on very poor sandy soil. This wine is very fresh, elegant and lush with a complex flavour profile – an absolute stand-out.

I could not help thinking that if this winery were in Burgundy, it would produce 20-50 single -vineyard wines. Maybe it will head in this direction.

There are many other delights for the wine enthusiast in this region. At Aalto, I meet co-owner Javier Zaccagnini, who was previously the director of the regulatory body of the region, and so has a wealth of information. He teamed up with Mariano García, who was in charge of winemaking at Vega Sicilia for 30 years, and they now make world-class wine from old vines, but without the historical constraints of Vega Sicilia. Aalto takes the approach of some wineries: there is a one sign directing on to it, but then you are on your own. Only the determined will find it. I did, but rather late, so our interview had to be cut short.

The vineyard plan was to take cuttings from old vineyards and plant a new vineyard below the winery. They took 4000, a few dozen virus-free, and took them, carefully labelled, to a nursery. Unfortunately, the nursery was threatened by fire, and the cuttings had to be hastily removed, with all labelling lost. The vineyard was planted, but they have no idea what is what now.  

Aalto sources fruit from this vineyard as well as from growers in different parts of the valley to make two complex wines, the Aalto and the Aalto PS. Both are impressive wines, with the PS being very dark and intense, yet elegant.

Hacienda Monasterio and Pago de los Capellanes are interesting examples of the influence of terroir. Hacienda Monasterio’s 100ha of vines grow on limestone soil. The vineyards are certified organic, and  the winery is moving to a biodynamic system. The plantings are 80% Tempranillo, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. For the longer-aged wines, the amount of new French oak increases, up to 100% for the Reserva Especial. What these wines share is a freshness, blueberry flavours and an acidic backbone.

Pago de los Capellanes is equally committed to expressing the fruit from its 100% Tempranillo vineyards, and so employ no fining, and no filtration. The relatively high-volume Crianza and Reserva are graceful wines, with pure expression of red cherry and a harmonious structure. Of special interest are the two single-vineyard wines, the Nogal and the Picón. The Nogal comes from fruit grown on clay. It is quite an intense wine of dark cherry and grilled meats flavours. The Picón is an even bigger wine, from a special plot of the same vineyard, and harvested at a very low 1/t/ha.

                                                        The spectacular barrel room

At the heart of the village of Pesquera de Duero is the Tinto Pesquera winery. Alejandro Fernández, today a legendary winemaker, started the winery in 1975, after planting vineyards in the late 1960s. There were only three wineries in the area at the time. Today there are 26 in Pesquera de Duero, a village of 470 inhabitants. Quite some ratio!

Tinto Pesquera is perhaps the soul of Ribera del Duero. The 16^th century winery is still on the estate and was used to make the Janus wine from 1968-72. Alejandro likes American oak, and it is used in 13 of the 16 wines made there. Today, the winery has 250ha under vine, in vineyards all around the village, with the highest plot being at 920m. The core portfolio is labelled in accordance with the wines’ ageing profiles: Pesquera Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva, and in excellent years Janus Gran Reserva. The wines are traditional and have quite an earthy flavour. The oak is quite noticeable as well.

While the focus of Tinto Pesquera is on tradition, at neighbouring Emilio Moro it is on growth. This winery now sells 1.5 million bottles per year (Pesquera sells 900,000), from 200ha of its own vineyards, and 200ha of grower vineyards.  Its ambition is to become an internationally recognized brand. Malleolus, its high-quality blended wine, uses fruit from 25 to 75-year-old vines grown on stony soils, on clay and on chalk, and is fresh, yet powerful with minerality a strong feature. The influence of terroir shines through on the two single -vineyard wines, the Malleolus de Valderramiro and the Malleolus de Sanchomartín. The former is grown on clay. The fruit is very ripe and powerful, and vanilla and toasted flavours dominate.  The latter is grown on chalk and is well rounded and elegant, with silky tannins to finish. This one was my clear Emilio Moro favourite.

Despite its proximity to Madrid, Ribera del Duero does not feel overly touristy. The number of high-quality hotels and restaurants is small, but growing. It is still a delight to sit in a little café on the village square in Pesquera and listen to the locals debating one thing or another. Winery visits should be arranged ahead of time. One thing to note is that most wineries close for siesta between 2pm and 4pm. It is therefore difficult to visit more than two wineries in a day.